A long good bye

For the first leg of the journey my mantra was , “just don’t get hurt, and have to leave trail.”  It kept me prudent and cautious, taking it slow, pacing with older people, listening to my body and taking care of my feet.  Also taking Zero and Nero days every 3-4 days, rather than the maybe one per week as I had anticipated before starting the trail.

The second leg of the journey had a different constraint.   A week before I started, having not backpacked in 30 years, I googled, “What is the average distance per day an AT Thur-hiker walks?”The response was 15-18 miles per day.” So I multiple the days by 16.5 and told Jane to meet me in Connecticut or Massachusetts in late June.  I did not account for Zero days, resupply miles off trail, or the fact that I was physically unable of hiking more than 8-10 miles a day in the beginning.   At Trail Days Jane and I did the calculation again, and up to the that point the long and hort days averaged out to between 10 and 11 miles per day.   So there was no way I was going to be in New England by the end of June.  Even if I pushed 18 mile days I would be barely half way, somewhere in PA probably much closer to my parents in Philadelphia than my uncle in Boston.   Jane changed the plane tickets from Boston to Philly and I decided to push as fast and far as I could per day. 

I started hinting to the tramily that I would potentially go off on my own for a while.   After weeks and hundreds of miles together we had a rhythm, our own norms and values, a certain sense of each others strengths, limits, and peculiarities.  There was comfort and safety hiking with the tramily. My parents felt less worried about my safety because there were other people looking out for me. 

Simmer and I had been together since the 1^st day and she took it kind of hard when Sub Zero left the group to go off on her own back in Hot Springs around mile 300.  Now I was talking about leaving,  a little past mile 600.  I had sort of joined up with Simmer and Sub Zero on the approach trail.  I had given Master Chef all my water when I left him.  Then I didn’t have enough to make it up Springer. I asked Simmer and Zero if they could spare some water and we became fast friends.  They were the ones to get everyone singing Happy Birthday to me on the first night at the Springer Shelter.  They were the beginning the AT hiker community to me.  A world of fast friends, with almost no barriers based on socioeconomic status, age or geography.  A community were caring, encouragement and generosity are the most common attitudes and behaviors.  Simmer didn’t like that I was going to leave, but she is also married and has children too and therefore completely understood that I needed to prioritize Jane and the kids.  I told her I had a plan to get a few days ahead then try to catch back up with the Shipyard tramily after I spent time with my family.  I figured worst-case I could catch up by August 1 at Dartmouth right before the White Mountains and complete the final 444 miles of the trail together. 

AT also had some plans to meet up with his family a few days here or there so he seemed to get it.  He also is generally even tempered so I would Not be able to tell if he had a strong opinion about it anyway. 

Windbreaker also  understood too but liked to make jokes about tramily over family. 

I present my plan to the tramily for a miles per day, all the way to Pine Grove Furness in PA.  Essentially a plan for the next 500-600 miles of trail.  It was about 18 miles per day with only Heros and Neros for resupply, no zeros.  That meant that many of the days were going to be over 20.   I said if they wanted to keep up we could continue traveling together a while, but I didn’t want to put undue pressure on them or ruin their experience, because of my schedule.   

Historically I would make an advanced rough plan for the tramily using my paper AT guild to lay out rough miles per day and next resupply points.  Then we would discuss it together. After which Windbreaker would usually modify the plan based on additional or more current information from the FAR Out App and work with HQ to arrange shuttles, hostel or hotel reservations.  Planning often included each persons personal preferences. For example AT and I like finding opportunities to swim, in ponds, lakes and pools.  Simmer needs french frys and beer every time week for her own sanity.  Windbreaker gets a little restless is she does get a shower every 2-3 days. 

My aggressive plan was going to push all those comfort zones, more miles, less showers, less town food, more foot pain. 

But leaving Trail Days the tramily seemed to want to see if we could stay together a bit longer and got creative with the planning. 

First day out of Trail Days, Windbreaker arranged to have HQ slack pack us to Parisburg.  Even without out a pack on that was rough 22 mile day.   And there was a feeling like we were rushing some of the beautiful places like Angels Rest.  By the time we arrived we were all pretty beat. 

The next 3 days we pushed 18, 19 and 21 miles.  That was significantly longer days then before trail days when we just getting comfortable with 15 -16 miles per day.  Also the weather started to get both warmer and wetter. 

There were also a few treats like the Keefer Oak which is the largest and oldest tree in Southern half of the Appalachian Trail and the Audie Leon Murphy memorial (the most decorated soldier in WWII).

Coming down the mountain from the Audie Murphy memorial we got dumped up by a torrential down pour.  Soggy soggy shoes. Got to camp and waited to see if it would let up.  It didn’t so set up tents in the rain.  Of course 10 minutes after setting up my tent the rain relaxed a little. So drenched in wet camp with a wet tent I sat. And there appeared a man who was not camping.  A trail angel (Jason) came by to see if anyone wanted a ride to the store.  So to hot food and beer I went.  Jason had a fast car and liked to demonstrate it’s power and cornering ability, but we did arrive safely at the gas station/grocery store.  When we got back Jason mentioned that last year he was the shuttle driver for Huckleberry Hostel and that Huck did slack packing if we were interested. 

The forecast had eight days of rain ahead.  We called Huck and the next morning he picked up out gear and we slack packed 20 miles.  We hit the 700 mile mark and the weather cleared for only about 1 hour but we were lucky because that was the exact time we reached the 1^st of Virginia triple crown peaks – Dragon’s Tooth.  The climb to the top of the tooth was pretty intense and definitely one I would not do in the rain.

That night we stayed at Huckleberry Hostel.  The bunk house was full, so our Tramily stayed in a glamping tent.  After showers and putting in loaner cloths we got a ride to a southern family style restaurant.  Fixed price they bring out a plate of Fried chicken, plate of baked Ham and bowl of roast beef in jus plus all the sides, beans, greens, mash potatoes, slaw, and bottomless sweet or unsweet tea.  If your family or Tramily manages to finish anything, they refill the plate until y’all just can’t eat any more.  Then there is cobbler.  $26 per person and they didn’t mind that we took left overs to pack out. 

Next day Huck also slack packed us and we did another 20 miles all the way to Daleville.  It rained all day, it was also intensely foggy and we summited the other 2 Virginia crowns, McAfee Knob and  Tinker Cliffs.  No views. Just soggy. By the time we reached our packs at BeeChill Hostel we were all physically and emotionally spent.  I was no longer thinking straight, just moving forward with the hope of food.  BeeChill Hostel was full so we Ubered to a Comfort Inn.  The forecast was non stop thunder storms the next day.  Our tents never had a chance to fully dry and our spirits were down.  So we decided to take a full Zero in Daleville (technically the motel was in Troutville) and figure out how we wanted to tackle the next 4 days of rain after getting some rest. 

I had intended to leave the tramily and not stay the second night at the motel, but I and the team were so bedraggled that it seemed best just to take a day off.

  While at an outfitter resupplying I met a guy who mentioned that he ran a donation only hostel that was a little way off trail that I might not have seen on the Far Out app.  I told him I was trying make some bigger miles the next few days.  He said he could do a group rate for our tramily to slack pack the next 3 days, so we could do 20 miles days even in the rain and stay at his hostel.  For $250 we got 3 days of slack packing 2 nights in a (dry) bunkhouse and he said his wife would cook us all dinner both nights.  I was sold, also this way we could keep the tramily together a few more days. 

So, I got his number and met back up with the tramily after grocery resupply and presented the option. 

Now normally Windbreaker makes the lodging arrangements, and coordinated shuttles and slacking, because she has places she has researched and she has the highest standards of what is acceptable.  She had not heard of this off trail hostel.  “Who did you talk to?,” asked Windbreaker.  “Oh yeah, he is Nuts, like a statement”. Says I.  Windbreaker, “What?!” Me,” Really that is his name, Nuts.”. We did eventually find some reviews online and they were mixed reviews, but ultimately the prospect of not sleeping in the rain for the next couple days and slack packing won the day.  So 8AM the next morning we were picked up by Nutz, and driven to the trail to SoBo slack pack back to Troutville.  It was a good day, but still a very wet day and I was glad to be going to a dry hostel.  When we go there, it was a little different than other hostels we had stayed at.  Nutz proudly declared that the Hostel had been designed by a guy we had actually met back at Boots Off hostel, named “Too High To Hike”. This was foreshadowing of what to expect.  AT was happy because there was an XBOX and he would get to play some video games for the first time on trail.  I was was happy because Nutz mentioned his wife had cooked chili and make fresh bread. (even made vegetarian chili for Windbreaker). Simmer and Windbreaker were way out of their comfort zones. The bathroom was a port-a-potty which was fine, but the blue liquid was a little high so you risked back splash.  The outdoor shower, propane tank was empty so no hot showers. (Nutz went out and got more propane, so we did actually get hot showers later) There were a few other people staying a the hostel that looked more like semi long term residents rather than Thur-hiker’s.  Simmer seemed to have her guard up. And Windbreaker who sometimes we tease calling her princess was more than a little uncomfortable with the vibe. Had it not been raining she may have arranged for a cab back to the hotel. But the slack packing and lodging combo was worth the feeling out of their element. 

Honestly the decor was fun, complete with ninja turtles posters, taxidermy animals, a Salvador Dali melting clock.  It was like if someone on Acid was asked to decorate a Cracker Barrel with toys and novelties for the 1980s and 90s, plus a few antiques and random stuff left behind in a hiker box.  Even if the vibe of the place leaned more Hobo, than hiker, the generosity and good will from Nutz and his bending over backwards to accommodate all our needs and wants and or rapidly fixing stuff, I think won them over.  The meals were amazing, Nuts not only slacked us, but also took us on resupply runs, and basically made himself available to any need we had over the 3 days. 

Those 3 days were all rain and fog.  No views but lots of flowers and we made the miles, but truthfully the tramily was dragging.  AT was having ankle pain, Simmer had stopped smiling, even Windbreaker who trained for this in Washington state was sick of being wet.  I felt guilty.  I knew the tramily was pushing bigger miles because they wanted to stay with me and I had said we could all stay together if they kept my aggressive schedule. Which we were.  We were actually a few miles ahead of my plan, but I could tell if we kept it up no one would be having any fun.  I decided it was time to leave.  At the resupply I bought a large beer and a half sheet pan of sweet southern corn bread, which I packed out. Near the end of the 3^rd day at a foot bridge outside Glasgow Nutz gave us back our full packs.  He offered to drive us into town so we could get some food and camp at the town pavilion.  But we declined and hiked a few more miles to the next shelter.  Which of course was up hill. Towns are almost always in a valley, so leaving town is always uphill. 

When we got to camp everyone was exhausted, and started the normal routine of pitching tents before finding water, then cooking diner, then personal hygiene, followed by journaling and sleep.  I interrupted the normal flow by announcing that I was going to move on after diner and hike a few more miles, splitting from the group.  The rest of crew set up their tents then we sat down to a ceremonial meal of corn bread and beer.  I hugged everyone good bye.  Which is weird because to prevent spread of Norovirus, hikers rarely touch each other or share food.  At most there is a fist bump.  But on this occasion food and hugs were shared.  There were no tears but there was a sadness felt in the parting.  As I walked away from the tramily I sang our theme song the Sea Shanti “Leave Her Johnny”  

Oh, I thought I heard the Ol' Man say,
Leave her, Johnny, Leave her!
Tomorrow ye will get your pay,
An it's time for us to leave her!

The work wuz hard an' the voyage wuz long,
Leave her, Johnny, Leave her!
The sea was high an' the gales wuz strong.
An it's time for us to leave her!

The wind was foul an' the sea ran high,
Leave her, Johnny, Leave her!
She shipped it green an' none went by.
An it's time for us to leave her!

The grub was bad an' the wages low,
Leave her, Johnny, Leave her!
But now once more ashore we'll go.
An it's time for us to leave her!

By the 3^rd verse I was up 100 feet or more of elevations and could not longer see the camp, but I could hear them a little as sounds carried up hill.  I could also hear the Bard Owls which seemed to have followed us all the way from Georgia.  Just shy of 800 miles walking together, and now I walked off alone.  It was dusk and I only had a little daylight left, the climb was challenging and storm was coming in.  3 miles up I walked to near the top of the mountain. And made camp only 10 minutes before the rains started.  The next morning I woke to sea a clouds below me.  I was both sad to leave the tramily and excited to be off on a solo adventure.