Let's see what my legs can do!

Hey friend. I know it is wet but it is time to get going.  Let's go see what my legs can do.  The rough plan.  No zeros days until 1/2 way.  No stopping until Pine Grove Furness State Park in PA.

Start out bold start out cold.  The early hiker gets the cobwebs.  Lots of silk blazing.

The rain knocked the flowers down.  The trail is carpeted.

Here is me on my first day solo.  Honestly I kept thinking of the tramily, sort of having conversations with them in my head. Also there is a new sense of possibility. Not urgency, but an expectation of becoming.

Eventually the silence grew.  The changes that I am seeking out here are not just physical, but mental and spiritual as well.  For that a little time alone is a very helpful thing.

800 miles.  Someone told me trail legs might take 700-800 miles to kick in.  Let see what these legs can do.

Butterfly have always been symbols of transformation.  What in me needs to metamorphasize?

What colors need to come out?

Prayers and prophecies answered to my surprise.  The answers were light and kind.  No burden at all. 

Feeling the angelic threads that connect all living souls to their origin.

Set up where eyes can see 365 degrees. 25 miles today good start.

Divine promises. 

Glorious morning.

Strange friut.

New life.

The twisted tree that doesn't fit in the milling machine. 

The horizon spins to meet the sun.

Just before entering Shenandoah stopped by King's Gormet Popcorn for a hotdog, fries, Dr. Pepper and kettle corn.  Then listened to some Soul music and swapped Philadelphia stories with the owner.

Hung out a little late and ended up hiking into the Shennies in the dark. 

It was hard to find a campsite. At one port I was about to set up my tent on an old logging road when glowing set of eyes stared me down.  At 30 yards I couldn't tell if those eyes belonged to a bear but I was not about to wait and find out.  So I hiked a few more miles until reaching the radio tower area.  

The views of in the Shennies are some times better if you do a little road walking, or in AT speak "yellow blazing" 

Walking along the trail someone yelled!  It was Mo a teenage Later Day Saint, who is hiking the AT before going on his mission.  Last I saw him was day 2 back in GA.  We walked and talked together for the day arriving at Loft Mountain Camp Ground where there was a special trail magic going on called Nero Palooza.  A Trail Angel named Truck Stop had rented an entire section of the camp ground for thurhikers to stay.  He had a trailer with many coolers of soda and beer.  On the grill he cooked venison burritos, bear poppers, and grilled bobcat.  There was enough food for the more than 30 hikers that showed up. I don't think I can technically call my day a Nero as I had hiked 22 miles that morning, but I still enjoyed the party.  

Almost everyone there was new to me except Mo, Kodiak, and Sub Zero.  Yup! I caught up with Zero.  It was a happy reunion.  She mentioned that she, Kodiak, Appolo, and Maverick (older one) were all going to get rides up to Pine Grove Furness on Tuesday June 9th to do the Half Pint challenge, because most of them had to get off trail for a few days to weeks for one reason or another and it would be more fun to do it together with people you know.  They invited me along if I wanted to go.  I told Zero I would reach out if I couldn't walk there in time.  All the people I knew left after dinner to hike more miles that day.  I stayed for the party and made some new friends, including Maverick (younger one), Snoozer, Muskrat and Chief.  

Picture of everyone who stayed for breakfast the next morning.

4 days of of big miles and another 100 miles done! Feet are starting to hurt pretty bad. 

More road walking, which was probably a mistake.  Acidentally hiked 27 miles and had really rough feet.  also some muscles in my knees started to seize and wouldn't relax.

Ended up hiking the next day with a guy named Chief (wearing all Kansas City attire) and Derick Lugo, (Author of the Unlikely Thur-Hiker, an Appalachian Trail Journey).  We made it to a wayside (Shenandoah speak for snack bar/gift shop) at 7 miles and stopped for the famous blackberry milkshakes.  Other hikers I met a Neropalooza began arriving and sharing stories around the picnic tables.  Muskrat was awaked that morning in a hostel bunk house (an old converted barn) to a snake falling on his face.  He threw the snake across the room and left before breakfast.  Snoozer rolled over laughed a little and went back to sleep.  Snake alarm clock was the story of the day.

There was also much debate as to whether road walking counted as the trail or not.  The debate as always unresolved.  Hike your own hike. I hobbled back to the trail with my sore feet and stiff muscles and only made it about a mile to the campground near the Wayside.  Others had skipped the AT and just walk straight out the back ok the wayside to the camp.  I felt a little dumb.  Also tired and sort of home sick.  I stopped by the campground bathroom to fill my water bottles the sat at a picnic table to write a letter to Jane. 

I was there a while mostly writing. But also avoiding walking. My feet were in a bad way.  I could walk through the pain but I was finding it hard to motivate myself to get up.  When I did the sore muscles in my knee started talking to me.

I walked about 20 yards a before running into some of the hikers from lunch.  Maverick (the younger) said, “ the couple in the next tent site, paid for two sites and offered this one for Thur-hiker’s to stay at free.” I waffled for a minute, both wanting to get more miles, but also not wanting to walk them.  Then Maverick said, “look in the bear box.” Bearboxes are large metal containers bolted to the ground with doors that latch in a way bears cannot get in for food storage at night.  The neighbors had not only given us a free tent site, they also went to Costco and filled the beatbox with resupply snacks and food.  There were pop tarts,  granola bars, candy, fruit, oatmeal. etc.

I decided to stay.  I thanked the neighbors and set up camp on the early afternoon.  Tried to rest, but did get sucked into a game of Frisbee, although with my leg I wasn’t running for any catches. 

Later the guy camping on the other side, after finding out we were Thur-hiker’s offered to fry some fish he had caught for us.  Red snapper he had caught the day before in Florida. It was delicious.  We all enjoyed the fish and conversation.  Later that night a few of us walked back up to the lodge near the camp ground and had cocktails while watching the sunset.  It felt pretty bougie. 

In the morning I went over to the couple (Jason and Bree)  that provided the campsite to thank them.  We shared breakfast.  I learner that Jason’s mom had always loved the AT and even though they themselves had not thurhiked, that they really enjoyed providing trail magic when they go out hiking sections on their annual vacations.  They asked me what snack I preferred and I told them I always love it when people give us fruit.  Because it is healthy and refreshing. But too heavy for backpackers to carry, so we only have fruit in town or when a trail angel provides it.  They took it to heart and said they planned to go buy some more fruit for the bear box.

That day I found myself hiking and talking with Maverick again.  As with many hikers I asked him why he decided to hike the AT.  Maverick is having a quarter life crisis.  He has a finance degree and worked for a prestigious management consulting firm.  He was having difficulty reconciling the work with his strong Christian convictions, so here he is out on the trail praying and even fasting some days.  We had the most wonderful discussions and he was very patient with my slow pace due to my knee pain.  At one point we encountered a day hiker who offered us some snacks from her car.  She had attempted a long backpacking trip 2 years before and kept provisions in her car to share with hikers.  What started as casual conversation turned deep rather quickly.  Our trail angel was struggling with depression having been recently laid off from her job as prison guard.  She did share that she had wanted to minister to the prisoners. But that was in contradiction to her role as a guard.  We prayed together.  Perhaps she will even start a prison ministry. The rest of the day was deeply joyful but my knee was still causing me a lot of pain. We only made it 15 miles that day and camped at a shelter.  Trillium and Fresh were there.  They are couple that I had been leap frogging for months.  Trillium gave me some KT tape for the knee.  

The next day Maverick and I again walked, shared stories and prayed.  Even confessed sins and prayed in the Spirit for healing.  I ended up on my knees more than once.  Not only in prayer. But also in pain.  It finally got to the point where it couldn’t continue.  Maverick cared my pack (and his own) the last mile to the next Wayside. We decided it was best to eat first then figure out the best next steps.  So after a burger and blackberry milkshake my head heart and stomach were in the same place.   Trillium and Fresh showed up again and this time Trillium gave me a spare knee brace she had been carrying.  Maverick and I looked up hostel options for me to get off trail.  I could go back a little to Lurray and stay at place called Open Arms Hostel.  Just then the Trail angels from camp two days before drive up on drive by fruiting.  They had bought apples and oranges and bananas and were driving around between their day hikes handing out fruit to hikers.  I asked them for a favor, a ride to Lurray.  They said sure hop in a gave me a ride to the Hostel.  

Maverick and I experiencing the bliss of God's creation.

I arrived at Open Arms Hostel in the early afternoon, without reservation, hobbling, and requesting lodging. Alison who runs the hostel showed me the place, laundry, shower, resupply, communal kitchen. DVD collection, etc.  I cleaned up, rested, ate, got takeout Italian (chicken parm) and weighed my options.  Should I seek medical attention or did I just need rest.  Between Epsom salts and Ben Gay I was was feeling a lot better by evening.  I decided to skip the doctor and head back to the trail the next day.  However to give my knee a little rest I arranged with Alison to slack pack me to Front Royal.  Basically she would drive my backpack to the next Hostel 20 miles down trail and I would borrow a small pack for food and water and hike there. 

20 miles was a lot, but the other option was 10 mile because of the where the road crossing are and that just didn’t seem worth it. 

Next day off I went with almost nothing on my back and I felt great.  Not 100%, but leaps and bounds better than the day before.  I kept leap frogging the Tramily of three, who were all from Georgia, (Water Boy, Mrs. Frizzle, and Harvest Moon).  

I made the full 20 miles by 5:30 PM.  I wasn’t planning to got to Town and the Hostel where my bag was was on the outskirts near the trail.  But just as I arrived at the road, simultaneously with the Georgia 3, the last free shuttle to Front Royal drive up.  The allure town food won out and we all headed into Front Royal. 

The outfitter, an excellent bakery and a brewpub all shared the same downtown mini mall.  I bought a 3 berry pie, full sized and brought it to the bar to share with my new hiker friends.  The guy from the outfitter asked if we need a ride back to the trail later.  We all thank him and said yes please.  He said just come back after you eat and that he would give us a ride after the outfitter was closed. At the bar I also ran into Muskrat, Snoozer, and Entity, who were all planning to go a minor league baseball game.  They invited me along but I opted for going back to the trail, since I had not yet picked up my pack from the other Hostel.  Everyone enjoyed the Pie and there was even a piece left for the trail angel who offered us a ride back to the trail.  Which worked out perfectly because it was his favorite pie.  I wish I could remember his name or trail name but I can’t.  I do remember him saying to truly enjoy this experience because even though there are other trails, you can only have one 1^st thurhike.  Have been a little mentally physically and spiritually down in the past week I think I needed to hear that.  I am great full for ride and the wisdom.  Then the Georgia 3 and ihike another 3 or 4 miles to the next tent site.  Now with full pack my knee held up for and almost 25 mile day.

The Georgia 3 and 3 berry pie!

Ok this post is not done yet.  More questionable decisions to come...keep reading.

Naturally provided trail snacks!

Stopped at this little Shelter for a break and met a guy who's parent hiked the AT years ago and his friend from Whales.  His parents had stayed at this shelter a wrote about it in their journels.  So cool that the trail is multigenerational.  There was also a day hiker with her dog that was walking the trail and collecting trash.  She offer to carry out any trash we had.  Trail angels come in all forms.  Such a cool and kind this to do on a day off.

The last bit of Virginia before west Virginia is know as the roller coaster.  Warning this is second order fun.  No views, just PUDs (pointless up and downs) I happen to be there on a weekend so there were many day hikers there from Washington D.C.  I did enjoy explaining to people who were on the AT, who had no idea, that yes you can walk to Georgia or Maine from the path they were standing on.  Minds blown.  

At the 1000 mile mark I did send this text to my wife: "And I would walk 500 miles and I would walk 500 more just to be the man that walked 1000 miles to fall down at your door.  Da Da Da! "

I kept leap frogging the Georgia 3.  This is them debating SOBO slack packing the 4 State Challenge.  Which they were trying to convince me to join them in doing.  The 4 State Challenge is 43 miles in less than 24 hours crossing 3 state lines, hence touching feet in 4 States, VA/WV, WV/MD, MD/PA.  I was like...hell no, I was almost off trail a week ago with a bad knee.  Y'all have fun.  (Foreshadowing)

On the bridge over the Potomac river with Stew.

I stopped at he Appalachian Trail Conservancy HQ.  Had my photo taken as part of the tru-hiker registry.  Also ran into many old and new friends.  Including the Georgia 3 who tried one last time to convince to do the 4 State Challenge.  I politely declined, letting them know that after lunch I planned to hike out of West Virginia and stop at the 1st shelter in Maryland.  (More foreshadowing) I also received a resupply box that Jane sent, which included home made food that was freeze dried and other special trees like free dried Blue Bell Ice Cream.  

Good reminder.

Had lunch with a section hiker who works for the foreign services handling extradition of American citizens that get stuck in foreign countries. Fascinating conversation.  We also discussed pilgrimage trails in Japan.  New bucket list adventure ideas.  After lunch I hiked across town a ran into other people I had crossed paths with since Georgia.  The trail is weird like that.  I stopped for second lunch then head across the railroad bridge to Maryland.  

The first few miles of Maryland were along the canal, with the Potomac on my right, and CSX freight tracks on left on the other side of the canal. There were mulberry trees, so I grabbed over head snacks while walking along.

About 6 miles into Maryland I stopped at the The Edward B. Garvey Memorial Shelter is a popular, deluxe two-story shelter on the Appalachian Trail in Frederick County, Maryland, near Weverton Cliffs, built in honor of AT advocate Edward B. Garvey. Known as the "Hilton of AT shelters," it features an enclosed loft, picnic tables, benches, a privy, and a fire ring, with a reliable spring located downhill.   When I got there I was alone.  I spread out on the second story.  Then I made a camp fire and played some tunes on my phone.  Almost half way this is the first time I made a fire.  A few other hikers showed up and we all hung out a told stories and joked around until the late late hour of 10:30.  A full hour and a half past hiker midnight (9PM). The next morning I woke early ate packed and left camp at 6:45 AM.  Note the time it will be important later.  

 Although I had decided not to do the 4 State Challenge, I was inspired to see if I could set a personal best mileage day.  I set intending to hike most of Maryland in one day.  From the shelter I was at to a campsite near the end of the state was just about 30 miles.  I knew it would take all day and a little into the night, but the terrain seemed gentle and the weather was nice. Around lunch I was going to be near the first Washington Monument. A friend of mine from Grad school, Andrew, had messaged me.  He wanted to come hike a bit with me.  The communication was perfect.  He asked where I would be in the next 2 hours and what I wanted hime to bring.  I told him that I was be at the first washington monument and I would love a hoagie and a coke.  

Andrew is a hero! He brought me 2 hoagies, 2 Cokes and 2 packs of peanut M and Ms, which I devowered.  Andrew hiked 5 miles with me, then had to go back to his car, so he really put in the miles.  Luckily he is like 6 and half feet tall, so I still had to struggle to keep up with him.  

The day was beautiful and my heart was also warmed by Jane's home cooking.   Our neighbor in Texas had recently bought a small freeze dryer.  Jane had sent a care package that included many freeze dried meals some which were home made.  Every dry backpacker food tastes better when made by someone who loves you.  For feel it is better than the store bought meal.  Jane is the best.

You can see in this picture that I both happy and feeling loved but also getting tired.  At this point in the day I have probably already hike over 25 miles.  It is likely that my executive function is starting to wane and I should probably avoid making important decisions. 

I continued hiking until I got to the tent campsite just short of 30 miles from where I started that morning.  It was dusk and I was almost out of water.  The Spring was on the opposite side of the trail from the path to the tent site and the walk to water looked pretty long.  I dropped my pack by the trail and hiked about 1/3 of a mile down the hill to get water from the spring. Once I had filled my bottles and hiked back up it was full dark out.   I may have been around 10pM at night.   Just as I was about to put on my pack and walk up to the tenting area I saw 3 little lights bobbing down the trail toward me from the North.   I thought just maybe that is the Georgia 3...wouldn't that be fun.  So I waited and low and behold it was Waterboy, Mrs Frizzle and Harvest Moon, the Georgia 3.  They were as always surprised to see me.  Mostly because I kept complaining about my knee and yet I kept putting in the miles.  

We all joked about a bit.  They were like you should have just done the 4 State with us you already did 30 miles, you might as well walk six more and at least cross the PA line.  "There is only one spot that is a little rocky.". 

Again I was too tired to be making wise decisions at this point and thought as they moved on ...maybe...well...ok what is 6 more miles.  I might as well just hike to PA.

With a mad glint in his eye our protagonist heads to Rockylvania in the growing darkness.  

So one put little encouraging signs on the trail.  Also a little rocky was a mile of essentially a straight down at 45 degrees or greater pitch boulder field.

around this time my dad started texting me...

The following is from my Dad's perspective:  

I requested a campsite name and location. 

Matt's response was "Not sure yet" at around 10 PM. It was dark out. Matt was hiking by flashlight. Hunh!?! He's still walking! 

The texting went like this:

• Me: Campsite? (10 PM)
• Matt: Not sure yet
• Me: LATE. Shelter at 1065
• Matt: Okay.
• Me: ???
• Matt: Picture of sign, left for earlier thru-hiker, lit by flashlight: "If you find a path with no obstacles, it probably doesn't lead anywhere." signed by Frank and bearing painted roses.
• I drilled down on my map. Shelter now appeared closer to mile 1066 NOBO.

• Me: Sorry map says m 1066. Ensign Cowall Shelter
• Matt: Passed that. 2 miles from PA.
• What!?! That's 10 miles further North.
• Me: Pushing at night - not a fan.
• Matt: Love You
• Me: No campsites. Shelter at 1080.

• Matt: Picture of sign, left for earlier thru-hiker, lit by flashlight: "Yeah, these rocks *SUCK* but you're getting closer."
• Me: This is a run to 1 AM - if it was done in daylight. I don't think there will be trail magic at this hour. I'll stand by.
• Matt: Ha. Ha. The trail is magic.
• Me: Here

• Matt: Picture of sign, left for earlier thru-hiker, lit by flashlight: "You're almost there!"
• Me: Still here.
• Matt: 0.8 to state line
• Ut-oh. That took a long time.
• Me: Plan?
• Matt: You are asking a lot for a late night.
• It's close to midnight.
• Me: Looking for mile when you will camp.
• Matt: There is a shelter a few past the state line.

• Matt: Picture of sign, lit by flashlight: "Mason Dixon Line - Maryland / Pennsylvania"
• Me: Here
• Me: PA Line at m 1076 Shelter & campsite at m 1080.5 My map - Deer Lick Shelter.
• Matt: Yeah there is also campsite in 0.5
• ME: OK, not on my map
• And then he did something smart.
• Matt: Sitting down for 15 minutes. Shoes off break.
• Me: I'm here
• I go searching satellite pictures.
• Me: Looks like trail will soon follow old power line road maybe
• Matt: On the move again
• Me: Here

• Matt: Picture of a sign, lit by flashlight: "You are walking on old trolley line just in back of Jim's pop-corn stand - Ice Cream - Hot-Cold Sandwiches" followed by "Beside Jim's was Trolley Station also PemMar post office. This was in early 1900's"
• Me: Smiley Face
• An hour passes.
• Me: ???
• Matt: Missed campsite - headed to Deer Lick Shelter
• Oh, S__T.
• Me: Ok, blue blaze 2S & 2 cs
• 2 AM. This is too much. I search my maps. There are no nearby trail towns.
• Me: Suggest Nero <for tommorrow> at mile 1095 then 5 m west on Rt 30 to Chambersburg Baymont $65 see BB Caledonia st park for shuttle or bus
• Me: Stop hopper bus $2 Rt 30.
• 2:30 AM
• Me: ???
• Matt: sends GPS L&L
• Matt: Good Night. In Shelter. (Deer Lick Shelter ~1081 NOBO)
• 3:00 AM - 39 miles hiked. That's huge.

• Me: Good Night
• 5:00 AM  - Matt with 2 hours of sleep, gets up, walks another 3.8 miles to Tumbling Run shelter
• 7:00 AM - Matt sends "evidence " picture of Tumbling Run

I got to Tumbling Rock Shelter at 6:40 AM, with 5 minutes to spare.  43+ miles in under 24 hours.   Not the 4 State Challenge exactly, but 4 State adjacent.  There were 1 shelters at Tumbling Ro k, one with sign saying non snoring and the the other snoring.  I went to my designated home and fell fast asleep.  

..then merely 2 hours later a sound of revelry...do doot da da doot doo!   Yes a girl's church camp did assemble their group with a bugle.  

Awake now!  Might as well get hiking.  

Then I remembered that Sub Zero had mentioned if shuttling up to do the Half gallon challenge before she got off trail.  

So I texted and got picked up at the next road crossing.  Crammed in the car with Zero, Maverick (the elder) and Appolo.  

We each picked out a tub of ice cream and went at it.  

The half gallon challenge: 

"The midway point of the 2,198-mile A.T. is nestled amidst the scenic beauty of Pine Grove Furnace State Park in Cumberland Valley. This lush haven is also home to the famed Appalachian Trail Museum, which offers a glimpse into the trail's history and culture. 

As thru-hikers reach this pivotal juncture, many choose to stop at the Pine Grove Furnace General Store (located a short walking distance from the Museum) and participate in this rite of passage, which includes devouring an entire half-gallon of ice cream in one sitting. Sounds sweet, right? But make no mistake—this isn't your average dessert. It's a testament to the hiker's resilience and a quirky tradition that has become a legendary part of the Appalachian Trail experience.

The Half-Gallon Challenge marks the culmination of months of physical and mental endurance. As hikers reflect on the miles they've conquered, the celebration becomes a way to connect with fellow trailblazers, sharing stories and laughter over a mountain of ice cream.

It might seem like an easy feat for a thru-hiker, some known to burn around 5,000 calories a day while hiking the famed Georgia to Maine footpath. However, the brick of ice cream can still be considered a "challenge" for most. Visitors to the Pine Grove Furnace General Store can enjoy flipping through the composition notebook filled with hiker tales of attempted and finished challenges. Some brag they could "still eat a cheeseburger," while others dream of "sleeping it off on the trail." 

The Half-Gallon Challenge is more than just a gastronomic feat. It's a sweet celebration of a shared experience that bonds hikers and creates lasting memories, and it reflects the unique charm of Cumberland Valley's portion of this iconic footpath."

Honestly I felt pretty gross afterward.  

Then went back and hit the trail again for another 17 miles.   

The next day I actually made it on foot to Pine Grove Furness.  My friend Chris's family has a cabin about 3 miles off trail.   I headed there for much need Zero day.  

After the 0, Chris and I slack packed 16 miles.

Ending the day with wings and ice cream.  (I didn't think I would want ice cream again. But it was delicious). 

Then we took another Zero and my Friends Scott came out took, bringing me another resupply box from Jane and a few other essentials.

We went to the AT museum.  We road bicycles there.  Older bicycles...

Picture of the 1st Thur-hiker.  Apparently after hiking the entire thing NoBo, no one believed him.  so he turned around and hike the entire thing again SoBo, just to prove he could.  I might be crazy, but I'm not doing that. 

Picture of Grandma Gate wood and here pack. So cool. She is a legend and also super funny.  

Due to flat tire we attempted unconventional ways of riding home.

We didn't get too far.

Yes these are bunch of 40 something year old men, riding handle bars 

Scott, Christian and I. 

On the Sunday I set back out on the trail.  With new and maybe questional challenge idea in my head.  Should I go for the week of Marathons every day?  Find out in the next blog post.  

Happy Trails!